"It's a "Porch-uh"" (ikazuchi)
02/02/2016 at 18:24 • Filed to: audi
2
15|
"It's a "Porch-uh"" (ikazuchi)
02/02/2016 at 18:24 • Filed to: audi | 2
| 15 |
So now that I’m sans racecar, so I don’t need the Tahoe to haul with, so I’ll soon be in need of a new daily driver. I had considered making my fleet all-BMW, with the consideration of an E39 540i Touring or an E53 X5. Both of which I’m told just bleed oil out of every surface and the valve guides fail on a regular basis.... so those are out. Also, I know fuel is cheap right now, but there’s something to be said for getting more than 15mpg in your everyday vehicle.
So that brings me to the Audi A4 Avant, which interests me on several levels. Wagon. Quattro. German. But I’m not sure which model to get. I’m thinking at least a later B6 (2003-2005) with the 1.8T (a reliable motor and cheap to maintain/repair) or a B7 with the 2.0T (more power, but direct injection means cleaning out the intake valves every 40K).
So what say you, Oppo? Any experience with these cars? What should I look out for? Should I avoid the 2005.5 A4 being the first year of the B7?
-this space for rent-
> It's a "Porch-uh"
02/02/2016 at 18:35 |
|
1.8T reliable and cheap? You must’ve had some terrible cars.
jkm7680
> It's a "Porch-uh"
02/02/2016 at 18:36 |
|
The 1.8t is reliable-ish. Coil packs go frequently though and good condition ones are harder to find.
The 2.0T honestly doesn’t need the intake valves being cleaned every 40k. There’s one in the family with 70k of trouble free miles on it. My friend has one in the same situation.
The 3.2 V6 is the most reliable out of the bunch.
Spaceball-Two
> It's a "Porch-uh"
02/02/2016 at 18:44 |
|
I have a B6 1.8t manual and what JKM said. You’ll eat coils often. Watch the thermostat, chain guides and a myriad of electrical gremlins. Typical Audi stuff.
CompactLuxuryFan
> It's a "Porch-uh"
02/02/2016 at 18:55 |
|
Ooh! I actually have a 2005.5 A4 Avant 2.0T 6MT as my only car! Feel free to ask any questions!
I agree with jkm7680 about the valve cleaning, mine’s around 76K now and it’s fine. The previous two owners drove very little (52K miles in 10 years) and I don’t think that made the engine very happy. Ran kinda rough when I first got it. I’ve put the remaining 24K on since Sept 2014 and it runs great! Don’t foresee having to do a valve cleaning any time soon.
As for the 2005.5 bit, being the first year actually seems to have had the opposite effect, if anything, but I don’t think there’s any definitive information on that. It’s probably minimal anyway. I would say at this point how the car’s been treated matters way more than the year.
Mine has suffered many failures that seem to be common with B7 A4s. They include:
The electric window lock switch breaking. This happened before I owned it and I’ve yet to fix it. I have to hold it down in order for rear passengers to be able to use their power window switches.
Glovebox lid broken around the outboard hinge. Seems to be extremely common, and also happened before I owned the car. Makes me have to slam the glovebox to close it.
One of my taillights kinda burned out one of the connections. Had to replace the whole assembly (outside part that’s not on the hatch).
Related specifically to being a 2005.5, the only thing I’ve encountered is that a turbo recirculation valve tore its diaphragm and it threw a CEL (my only one!) and I lost some power at the top end. That was replaced with a revised part that’s all metal and has no diaphragm to tear, but I don’t know when the new part started being put on from the factory.
Cam followers for the high pressure fuel pump seem to be a hot issue with early 2.0Ts, but I had mine replaced preemptively when I had the timing belt done, and it came out perfect.
Boxer_4
> It's a "Porch-uh"
02/02/2016 at 18:58 |
|
Two words: engine sludge. Both the 1.8T B5 Passat and B5 and B6 A4 were notorious for engine sludge (at least the earlier model years). These engines need full synthetic oil, oil changes every 5,000 miles minimum, and the usual turbo-car driving habits (mainly, keep boost low a few minutes before turning off the car).
We never had any issues with our 2002 Passat, but we changed the oil every 3,000 miles. A friend of mine with a 2003 was more lax about maintenance, and was on engine number 2 by 90,000 miles.
Also, make sure the timing belt has been done (usually every 90,000 miles). It’s not a fun job (longitudinal engine with no room in front of the engine), nor is it cheap to have someone else do it. It’s an interference engine, too.
My recommendation: check the service records closely, and run (don’t walk) if there are no service records.
Saracen
> Boxer_4
02/02/2016 at 19:05 |
|
2005 never had engine sludge problems, in 150k of driving.
|
Saracen
> jkm7680
02/02/2016 at 19:05 |
|
I never had a problem finding high quality coilpacks.
AM3R shamefully returns
> It's a "Porch-uh"
02/02/2016 at 19:17 |
|
Why not an E91 325/328i? Reliable N52 inline six and can be had with a manual. I see them sub $10k all the time (mostly autos though).
|
Spaceball-Two
> Saracen
02/02/2016 at 19:17 |
|
2004, same here.
|
Saracen
> It's a "Porch-uh"
02/02/2016 at 19:23 |
|
I bought a 2005 A4 Avant 1.8T new. Put 150k on it and then sold it to get a Golf R. I loved the Avant, and there are times when I wish I didn’t sell it. Here are my thoughts on the car that come to mind:
Get a 2004-2005 if you can. They have a 6-speed gearbox, and the rocker panels are actually painted. If you can find an Ultrasport, do it!
The engine is very stout. It can take a pretty good amount of boost on stock internals. But if you start modifying it, you need to replace the stock diverter valve (I recommend the 710N from the 225hp TT), and you will want to get upgraded coilpacks...I recommend Hitachi Revision “E” boltdown coilpacks.
Change your oil regularly and on time. Especially if it’s tuned.
Belts and rollers should be replaced 70-75k miles like clockwork.
The coolant flange on the back of the engine can crack and fail. Important to inspect on a car with more than 100k miles on the odo.
The engine mounts - especially the front snub mount - are very soft rubber and will wear out quickly.
Control arms will eventually need to be replaced. The bushings wear out and they are non-serviceable.
Inspect the valve cover gasket every once in a while for leaks.
Supposedly the stock K03 turbo needs to be replaced at 100k, but at 150k mine was going strong. The car still has the stock turbo on it at well past 200k.
|
It's a "Porch-uh"
> -this space for rent-
02/02/2016 at 19:24 |
|
Like I said, my other cars are BMWs :)
|
-this space for rent-
> It's a "Porch-uh"
02/02/2016 at 19:27 |
|
My 1.8T A4 drove me to abandon VAG for BMW. I much prefer my drippy bimmer.
|
It's a "Porch-uh"
> AM3R shamefully returns
02/02/2016 at 19:29 |
|
I considered one but...
1. I’m not thrilled about the looks. There’s just something about the non-M E9X front end that just doesn’t do it for me.
2. The abundance of computers on the E9X makes them difficult to do work yourself. My E60 needed a computer update any time anything changed (like when it needed a new battery).
I had also thought about another E46 Touring, but I want to mix it up a bit, and I’d be too tempted to toss in the S54 I have sitting in the garage right now.
|
AM3R shamefully returns
> It's a "Porch-uh"
02/02/2016 at 19:35 |
|
Fair enough. I was thinking about getting a cheap E91 and swapping an N54 into it (because twin turbo 6MT RWD wagon) and doing an M3 body conversion.. Similar to this. But man... Did that part list add up!
|
Boxer_4
> Saracen
02/02/2016 at 20:14 |
|
We never had sludge issues with our 2002, either, but the issue does exist. As long as the maintenance was done on time it isn’t a problem. However, you never know how a used car may have been treated in the past.